From Delhi, we took a plane to one of the most visited pilgrimage cities of the world, Varanasi, along the banks of the Mother Ganges River. More than 20 million people journey to this holy place each year to bathe in the sacred waters and perform important cremation rites. The respect and reverence for this place is difficult to explain and must be felt.
That evening the sweet scented incense smoked and burned an ethereal haze on the mother river’s edge as brass clanged and music penetrated our beings. The evening aarti brought hundreds if not thousands of pilgrims and curious onlookers to a unity of spirit. A hundred boats sat on the river and candles floated, bobbing in the ripples. People clapped and prayed and my heart swelled in my breast as I experienced just about every emotion one can. It was spiritual to say the least.
The ceremony came after we had taken a boat, rowed by an elderly master, up and down in front of the most famous Ghats (steps to the river), palaces, and temples lining this ancient city’s waterline. Aside from the aarti, another moving experience was witnessing the sacred ritual of families cremating their loved ones.
At the oldest operating crematorium in the world at the river’s edge, our guide, who has participated in the rite for both of his parents, shared the process as we looked on from our boat just a couple of meters away. We could feel the heat of the fires as we watched the unburnt remains of a family member get tossed into the water by the one performing the rite.
The next day we explored more of the city, but that will come in another post. However, we did visit the banks of the holy waterway at sunrise the morning we left for Agra. We were told it is when the river is really active with people bathing. Not only that, it is absolutely beautiful to witness the sun creeping over the horizon on the far side of the river.
Many boats were out with tourists and pilgrims. People were washing themselves and sending candles out. The whole sky was pink, and then the light washed up the side of the historic buildings painting them in rich colors as pigeons and parakeets soaked up the morning rays. Suffice it to say, Varanasi is a truly special place.
