Abhaneri Chand Baori Step Well
Another pit stop on our drive from Agra to Ranthambore was in a little, out of the way town called Abhaneri to see one of the biggest and oldest step wells in India—Chand Baori. This engineering marvel was built in 800 A.D. as a rain water collection tank. However, it was also a community gathering place, especially in the hot, dry times, and ritual washing location for the neighboring temple.
It is called a step well because of the more than 3,000 steps that lead down to the water. These steps create a magnificent piece of art very reminiscent of M.C. Escher’s works or the Goblin King’s palace from Labyrinth.
It may not be a place to spend hours, and it may be a bit off of the main highway between destinations. That doesn’t mean it is a place to pass up. I am glad we went. We saw other step wells, but none were as impressive as this one.
At the head of the well is a temple looking structure with open balconies and niches. These are actually pavilion resting places for the royals if they were visiting the town or passing by.
The idea of the step well is ingenious as it is a sustainable source of water that doesn’t require massive diversion or reservoir projects. Instead, you have a well like this where you need it, and when there’s rains it fills. And, because of the design, it becomes a retreat for locals in this arid, hot region.
Harshat Mata Temple
The temple is next door. It is in ruins today as it is just as old as the step well and has seen many changes in power and ideology over the ages. Many of the carved stones from this Hindu temple can be seen in the step well compound where they are maintained and protected.
Both of these sites are free to visit. There are a few touts out front trying to get you to pay for a guide, and the caretaker will tell you a bit about it as if being friendly when really he is looking for a few extra bucks. He will try to make you feel guilty that he needs the money to take care of the property, but it is owned and funded by the government.
Enjoy the beauty of the place, the parakeets flitting about, and the beautiful stone carving on your own, and you’ll be very happy with the experience.
