With their backs up to the mountains and a stream in their front, the Ming Tombs just outside of Beijing offer the quintessential Chinese protection based on geomancy or feng shui. Thirteen of the Ming Dynasty’s emperors were interred in the hills northwest of China’s capital with their spouses, some treasures, and faithful servants.
I recently visited the three tomb sites that are open to the public. They are laid out like a traditional Chinese temple with various gates and halls leading to the tomb at the back of the complex. The tombs themselves are under round earthen mounds surrounded by massive masonry walls.
Today, the tomb mounds are covered in groves of trees. This provides for a lovely respite from the strong stone walls.
Some of the exterior structures are still original to the Ming era, but many were destroyed by fire or other forces over time. This led to reconstruction at the few that would be open for tourists. I think it would have been nice to see them as ruins, but that’s now how it is. Also, some of the other tombs visitors can’t visit look amazing in photographs in the museum halls.
Spirit Way
Another major portion of the tombs is the Spirit Way. This is essentially the entrance path to reach the tombs. Marked by gates at the entrance and exit, a stroll down this path is wonderful. Large stone statues of animals, mythical beasts, and court officials line the walkway with beautiful willow trees swaying overhead.
Unfortunately, this sacred way has also seen alterations in the last several decades according to the photographs. It is missing some of the statues that were standing in Mao’s day, and the path originally appears to have been narrower. My first time in Beijing, this walk was the only portion of the Ming Tombs I experienced. I would recommend visiting it all. It takes about half a day and is full of wonderful history.
Zhao Ling
Zhao Ling is the smallest of the three open tomb sites. It is a little further down the road, and many of its buildings are reconstructions. However, it is very peaceful and less crowded. It is a good introduction to the tombs because you get a slightly more compact space to explore one with.
Ding Ling
Ding Ling is one of the more popular because it is the only one that allegedly has ever been opened. This is a pretty interesting experience. Opened during the Cultural Revolution, many of its contents were ransacked and destroyed. Today, guests can go inside the tomb mound and walk through the arched-ceiling halls. Replicas of the red lacquered coffins are in one room with replica treasure boxes. Some beautiful stone thrones sit in the center hall.
Chang Ling
Chang Ling is the biggest and most impressive. Mostly, this is because it is where Emperor Yongle is buried. He was a very successful emperor and wealthy. This is represented in the site. The layout and such is the same as the others, but it is all grander and more lavish.
When we arrived, music came from behind the first building. Looking through the open doors I could see flags and banners. We hurried around and found a ceremony reenactment occurring. People in costume were demonstrating the process with a processional, music, kowtowing, offerings, and more. This made it an even better experience.
The main hall at Chang Ling is massive. There is a large statue of Yongle and a collection of artifacts in cases throughout.
I’m glad I had the full Ming Tomb experience. I wish more of the tomb sites were open for visitors especially since some of the closed sites look pretty cool in photos.
