Carved in stone outside Datong to the west sit hundreds of Buddhas at Yungang Grottoes. This UNESCO World Heritage site is the fourth of China’s Buddhist grottoes and the last one for me to visit. Bucket list item complete! Granted there are other such places in China including one on the tentative list for UNESCO, but the four I’ve experienced are spectacular. Each is unique in a way, but they all convey a deep sense of devotion and reverence.
Yungang, created in the second half of the fifth century, seems a mix of the Mogao Caves in Dunhuang and the Longmen Grottoes of Luoyang. There are cliff sides pocked with big and large niches like the latter. Each niche at one time was decorated with amazing relief sculpture. And, there are large caves with magnificent large sculptures and temple facades over the entrances like Mogao.
Many of them originally were painted. Some have been damaged over time by weather and natural forces. Others have been damaged or removed due to political persuasion. The ones that remain are pretty darn spectacular.
Just as many other grottoes in China, these lie on a major route of ancient trade. They sit right on an ancient border where people were coming and going. Above the caverns, on top of the hill, are remnants of an ancient wall. Along the paths are worn tracks in the stone from carts that once traversed along the cliff’s foot.
My Exploration of the Grottoes
I thoroughly enjoyed examining each niche and cave. Some of them had amazing detail. Unfortunately, photography is prohibited in the larger caves with the most detail including brilliant paint that’s lasted 1,500 years. This was similarly the case at Mogao, but no problem. I could spend a much time as I wanted staring and marveling and gawking as I wanted because unlike Mogao I didn’t have to go on a guided tour and could take my time.
My personal favorites are the walls covered in arhats or small Buddha figures. They are very geometric and create a lovely pattern. I also enjoy seeing the different interpretations of Buddha from the different artists. Some give him more Indian features (which is more accurate) while others make him very Chinese looking. Some give him facial hair while others make him as effeminate or neutral as possible.
Other Sights at Yungang
In addition to the ancient carvings, the location has a temple on a lake, a very built up tourist center and entrance, a tourist street for food and souvenirs just outside, and a museum. The museum looks like it would be worth some time, however, it was closed when we were there. The visitor center is very nice and clean. And the main entrance and walkway gives a monumental welcome to visitors.
The temple is newer but still lovely. The architecture is similar to the old Datong style. There is definitely a Ming feel to it, but it isn’t the same as Beijing. It is more natural looking without the bright colors, and the eaves a topped with different types of figures.
Additionally, the park area in front of the cliff is nice and peaceful. Many paths intersect and lead to the various locations on the property. Another ancient spot is a small cemetery with scattered monuments and steles.
Of the four grotto sites I have visited, I would rank Longmen my favorite due to the impressive site of the cliff side from across the river. However, each is unique and special. They all deserve an adventure, and that’s what I’d recommend to you. Until next time, happy adventuring!
