Ephesus is magnificent! This ancient city was one of the most important cities in the ancient world, and one of its largest. Ephesus was a major sea port and home to one of the Seven Wonders of the World. It is also one of the most important cities in ancient Christianity, not due to the Byzantine influence but something much older. The ruins of the Ephesus Archaeological Site are spectacular. Bits and pieces have been re-erected but not entire structures. The scattered few rebuilt structures or facades are not completely restored, but they give an idea of what the city may have been like in its grandeur without discounting the history.
A Walk through Antiquity
Our visit began at the gate away from the sea. This is where the upper class would have lived. Remnants remain of a large Roman bath, a small theater where politics would have been discussed, temples to various gods, and more. Colonnaded marble paths cut through the ruins. Other places where buildings once stood now reveal what was underneath—an elaborate plumbing system of terracotta pipes.
We strolled down the main marble road descending into the city. We passed sculptures and decoratively carved stones that once filled shrines or adorned shops. At one important intersection we found the goddess Nike or Victory, the messenger of the gods Hermes, and more amazing ancient art. This intersection also led to the Temple of Hadrian.
Continuing down the hill, the city turned more commercial with shops lining the marble road. At the end we could see the magnificent façade of the library. Columns lined the way. As we approached the center of town, we found many houses built up the hillsides, marvelous mosaics on the floors, and an ancient public toilet.
Library of Celsus
Our path led us to the heart of the ancient city where one of its greatest archaeological treasures lies in the Library of Celsus. The front of the building was reconstructed using mostly original pieces. It is pretty amazing! One advantage to visiting during the off season was not dealing with crowds of people and being able to enjoy the wonders at our own pace.
This library was one of the largest of antiquity once housing more than 12,000 scrolls. Its design includes east facing windows for the reading rooms to maximize light, a proportioned façade to give an illusion of a bigger size, and a secret tunnel that led from the library to a brothel across the street.
Ephesus Agora
Neighboring the library is Ephesus’s agora. This huge public market was once surrounded by shops with busy workshop spaces in the center. I could imagine this place bustling with activity. I could even imagine the early apostles and other saints preaching in this place. Perhaps this is where Paul told off the Ephesians before being taken to the nearby theater.
With Mary’s house in the mountains near Ephesus, I could imagine that John or others shopped in this agora for Mary. I could imagine sailors and traders bringing wares including slaves from the harbor. Others would have been packing up goods, crates, and vessels to load on ships for other ports. People of all classes would have been there, some carried on palanquins others chained in servitude.
to be continued in the next post
