From Pamukkale, we took an overnight coach to the desert region of Cappadocia, with remnants of culture dating back to the Hittite period.
The coach ride was probably my worst experience in Turkey. It was uncomfortable, extremely warm, and confusing. We arrived very early in the morning near our final destination. However, due to a pretty heavy snow, the coach could not safely descend into the valley and to Goreme, our base for the next couple of days. We waited in the depot for a couple of hours as dawn approached. Finally, someone secured a spot on a mini bus down to the village where we were taken to our hotel.
Goreme
Goreme is a small town built in the midst of Cappadocia’s main attractions—the fairy chimneys. These conical stone formations have been hollowed out and used as refuge for nearly two thousand years. Our hotel was built into some of these rocks. It was a lovely experience to stay in one of them.
The town also serves as a hub for tours around the region. Over the next couple of days we went on two different routes. Our first route, the red route, took us to the sights closest to Goreme.
Goreme Open-Air Museum
Some of the earliest settlers to use Cappadocia’s unique rock formations as shelter included the earliest Christians who were hiding from persecution. Over time, the Christian communities grew and a collection of monastic communities developed at the instruction of St. Basil. The Goreme Open-air Museum now protects one of the best collections of early Christian art in the world.
The museum is a grouping of fairy chimneys and cliff sides with rooms hollowed out. They were used for living spaces, dining areas and kitchens, workspaces, and chapels. Walking through this community of cave dwellings, I couldn’t help but wonder what it may have been like in the days when people were creating these spaces. Some of the chapels are high up on cliffs, so reaching them is difficult today. They would have clambered up the wall with ropes or scaffolding to do what they did. Some are through narrow tunnels, like labyrinths.
The Frescoes
The chapels are, or in some cases were, decorated with spectacular frescoes. Unfortunately, some of the frescoes are damaged. This is mostly to the eyes and faces because of the Islamic tradition of not having art with faces.
The colors the artists were able to get from natural dies are amazing. They have lasted more than 1,000 years and still strike awe and reverence into the viewer. Many of the paintings represent Christ and the early apostles. However, another favorite theme were the leaders or heroic figures of Turkey’s or Asia-minor’s Christianity. These include St. Basil and St. George known for slaying the dragon. Being made with natural dies and having no exposure to sunlight, photography is not allowed in the most spectacular of the caves, for fear of damage. However, I found a couple through the Wikimedia Commons for your enjoyment.
I highly recommend a visit to Goreme Open-air Museum when you find yourself in Cappadocia, and you should find yourself in Cappadocia at least once in your life. More to come about this fascinating place in following posts.
By Grizurgbg at the German language Wikipedia, CC BY-SA 3.0, Link
By Photographer: RE Hawkins at en.wikipedia, CC BY-SA 3.0, Link
