Due to ticket prices and travel arrangements, I only had four days to spend in Spain. I would be traveling with a friend, and we wanted to get the most out of our time. After some research, Toledo became a top contender for our itinerary. Near Madrid, this historic hilltop town was completely worth our time.
A Short Train Ride
We planned to go straight from the Madrid airport to Toledo taking two trains. However, when we got to the station for the Cernitas in terminal 4, we found our ticket, although purchased through the Renfe website was actually processed through a third-party agent meaning we didn’t get the free ticket from the airport to the train station. With no time to waste, we hopped in a cab and made it to the Puerta de Atocha train station just in time to catch our train.
The train ride is smooth and quick through the countryside of Don Quixote. It is a high-speed train connecting the two cities and runs multiple times a day. Many people from Toledo work in Madrid, and many tourists visit Toledo for the day from Madrid. The station in Toledo is a historic building just across the river from the truly historic core built on the hill. It is a short walk between the two with a series of escalators to take pedestrians up to the top. Buses also run between the historic core and the train station, and cabs are not scarce.
A Former Capital
Toledo is a special place. This old city was one of the former capitals of Spain and has a very storied past. The Alcazar perches at the top of the hill at one of the steepest points above the river. The spire of the cathedral can also be seen as can spires of many other beautiful churches.
This city is known for its mix of cultures and architecture coexisting peaceably, for the most part, for centuries. At many points in its history there were strong Muslim, Jewish, and Christian communities in various parts of the city. Visigoths and Romans also play a role in the city’s story.
We stayed in a lovely apartment in the historic center. It is on such a narrow street, it is only accessible by foot. We were less than a minute from the cathedral and had magical views from our window and roof-top balcony.
Cathedral
The Toledo Cathedral is spectacular. Built between 800 and 600 years ago, this magnificent edifice holds so much history and art it can scarcely be contained. The architectural details range from the medieval Gothic style to the decorative baroque. The collection of art and artifacts rivals that of the great museums of the world, albeit much smaller in scope. I mean, it isn’t everyday you see things made from the gold Columbus’ expeditions brought back from the New World and masterworks from some of the best painters of the renaissance.
A visit to the cathedral is very simple. Across from the main entrance for visitors is a small museum store and ticket office. Tickets are relatively inexpensive and come with a complimentary audio guide. Tickets can also be reserved for access to the bell tower in smaller groups at specific times. The views from the tower a lovely and the bells tell a story all their own.
Of all of the religious buildings we explored in Toledo or in Spain, this was the highlight for me. Everywhere I looked, there was something beautiful and amazing. This tour was also a great introduction to Spain itself. I realized that Spain doesn’t get its fair share of history class when for several hundred years it was the most powerful nation on the globe.
Other Houses of Worship
We wandered the streets of Toledo and popped into many of the history churches and synagogues. Some were very, very old. Some had spectacular architecture. Some had fascinating stories. And many have been turned into museums and are not used for religious services anymore.
The Vista
When researching Toledo, one of the things you almost always see is a picture of this UNESCO World Heritage city from a particular viewpoint. I really wanted to see this myself, so we made the excursion to the overlooks on the road across the river. We walked. It wasn’t too far or difficult, but a bus or taxi may have been a better option. The views of Toledo are magnificent. I can only imagine what it may have been like for a wayfarer like Don Quixote to see the city of Toledo for the first time.
Gol!
Before we turned in for the night, we found a little restaurant that was still open for dinner. There were several locals inside watching the Real Madrid soccer match. You don’t realize how into the Spanish are until you’re watching a game with them. The game was almost over and Madrid was down. Right in the last few minutes, they scored. Everyone in the restaurant cheered. They were sitting on the edge of the seat and pounded the table in excitement. Then, again, Madrid scored right in the last few seconds. It was even more uproarious than before. So, when you visit Spain, be sure to have the experience of watching a futbol game with the locals. You won’t regret the energy of the experience.
I highly recommend a visit to the lovely city of Toledo, Spain. It can be done in a day trip from Madrid, but you will not get the full effect of this special place. We stayed overnight, but I wish we had a few more days to just soak it all in.
