The Prague Castle wasn’t always the only castle in the city. Vysehrad perched on a hill over the river just around a bend to the south. I figured out what it was before I knew what is was because the name is very similar to Visegrad. That is a castle in Hungary built high above the Danube, north of Budapest.
Some legends tell us that Vysehrad was the first settlement of Prague. Whether it was or wasn’t, for a few hundred years, this upper castle housed the royal cadre. Charles IV moved the castle back to its current location after enlarging it. Today, not much remains of the castle. There are some walls, but most of the structures are gone. What remains is one of the most beautiful churches in Prague, which is saying something.
Cemetery
From great composers to other important Czech historical figures, the church’s cemetery is their final resting place. Beautiful grave markers and family crypts fill this cemetery. Just walking through brings a sense of wonder and history.
St. Peter’s and St. Paul’s
The Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul is a marvelous gothic structure. Outside the twin spires frame lovely mosaics and beautiful doors. However, the inside holds a beautiful surprise. Fabulous art nouveau frescoes cover nearly every inch of the inside. These, of course, came in the early 20th century. Inspired by beloved Czech artist Alfonz Mucha, who is buried right outside, two artists gave color, life, and movement to the otherwise typical gothic stone church. It is truly a magnificent sanctuary. I love the brightly colored clothes the artists gave the saints they painted on the columns. Even the vaulted ceiling ribs have beautiful bands and appear as ribbon garlands crisscrossing the space. Unfortunately, about half of the paintings are next to or behind the altar, so visitors can’t get a good look at them. I could spend hours inspecting these glorious frescoes, so maybe that’s a good thing.
