One highlight of my year was a month spent in Mongolia, most of it in Ulaanbaatar. Since living in China, I have thought it would be nice to visit Mongolia, though it has never been at the top of my list. It doesn’t even get honorable mention on my bucket list. However, over the last year, I’ve been on a journey that will hopefully end in this mysterious country. My trip in August was a wonderful introduction to the people, the place, and the culture.
Ulaanbaatar – the Coldest Capital in the World
Of my month on the steppe, most of it was spent in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia’s capital city. From my first hours in this city, it felt like home. It felt familiar and warm, despite the constant rain of the first couple of days. This small city felt a bit like some of the small cities I lived in in Hungary with its early 20th century European-style architecture mixed with Soviet-era concrete apartment complexes. Parts of the city still feel rustic with the colorful, ramshackle houses that would be more at home in the mountains or countryside.
Potholes pock the streets, and dirt and grime cover just about everything; lots of small residential streets are still dirt roads. Otherwise, it isn’t that dirty of a city. Yes, it is dirty, but not with litter and excrement and expectoration like some other cities I know. It is tough and worn like Mongolians themselves. It is hearty and strong but a little rough around the edges. The people are considerate and handsome. It is the kind of place you want to spend time.
Getting Around
Most of the sights in Ulaanbaatar are best reached by walking. Horrendous traffic clogs most roads, and the public transit system isn’t very developed beyond buses that are subject to the traffic. Taxis are few and far between, although you can get one at the airport and call to schedule a taxi from anywhere in the city. The locals use an informal system of flagging drivers and haggling with them for a ride. This method requires a bit of Mongolian language capability. You can also arrange day tours. However, like I said, most places you’ll want to visit are within walking distance, maybe a bit more walking than many in the West are used to, but still manageable.
Sukhbaatar Square
At the center of this burgeoning metropolis lies Sukhbaatar Square. The seat of government stands solidly as the backdrop to this plaza. A heroic Genghis Khan sits erect on a throne at the center of the building overlooking the square. At either end of the building are other important historical figures. At the center of the square, a monument proudly boasts of Mongolia’s greatest legacy of the great horsemen of the steppe. On either side, historic buildings flank the square. At the foot of the square, a green park offers respite and softness to the hard-scape. Sukhbaatar Square is the beating heart of the capital. It is used for large public events and celebrations. While I was there, I enjoyed a performance celebrating the relationship between Mongolia and Russia.
Zaisan Hill
Zaisan Hill sits in the foothills of the mountains to the south of Ulaanbaatar. Traditionally one of the sacred hills, this mount is crowned with a concrete monument celebrating the camaraderie between Mongolia and the Soviet Union and memorializing the soldiers who lost their lives in a few shared conflicts. The memorial begins at the bottom of the hill with a tank crawling up a concrete slope. Then, there’s a mall. Behind the mall or around the mall, stairs lead to the top of the hill. Spectacular views across the valley open up from the top. I also enjoyed the mural on the monument.
