As Mongolia’s capital for a few hundred years, you would expect there to be more Ulaanbaatar historic sites. However, not many places remain to reflect this history. The Soviets or Communists destroyed most of the city’s historic palaces, temples, and more. Most were tied to religious figures or ways of life, which explains why self-proclaimed atheistic governments destroyed most of them. A few historic sites survived these purges either because they could be used for something else or to show outsiders that they tolerated traditional religions.
Another reason there may not be many historic sites is the nomadic nature of Mongolian culture and history. Historically, there weren’t many large established settlements, except around temple complexes. Even today, much of the population is considered nomadic, living in portable gers (yurts) without permanent infrastructure. While there, I visited the major historic sites that remain in Ulaanbaatar.
Gandan Monastery
Perhaps the most famous attraction or historic site in Ulaanbaatar is the Gandan Monastery. Built in the early 19th century, this monastery’s largest hall houses a golden Buddha statue standing more than 26 meters tall. This is the main draw of the temple. The magnificent statue is worth a visit.
The communist government spared this monastery in the 1930s, but closed it down until the 1940s. At that time, it reopened as a show to foreign visitors that the government tolerated and permitted Mongolian culture and religion. However, at that time the statue had already been dismantled. In the 1990s, when they permitted full practice of religion again, this temple rebuilt the statue and began growing.
Several other halls make the whole monastery complex. There are some other historic halls, but most are more modern. Visitors can go in many and see the monks actively worshipping through prayer, art, and more.
Bogd Khan Palace Museum
The last monarch of Mongolia, Bogd Khan, had four palaces. Only one survived the communist destruction. This was his winter palace. For being the third most important individual in the Tibetan Buddhist tradition, his palace paled in comparison to the Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet. It is essentially a temple complex with a two-story Russian-style house and a ceremonial ger.
The temple complex holds a wonderful collection of traditional Mongolian Buddhist art and artifacts. The house, which was a slap to the Qing Emperor, technically the ruler of the Mongolian territory, who didn’t like the relationship the Bogd Khan had with the Russian Tsar.
Inside, a portion of his collection of exotic taxidermy amuses guests on the first floor. Upstairs, where he and his wife lived, there is a simple throne room, their private quarters with furnishings, and many personal belongings and clothing on display. Many of the textiles used for their robes glisten magnificently with gold-embroidered silk.
At this palace, I learned about the one elephant that once lived in Ulaanbaatar. They brought it from some climate elephants can better endure and kept by the Bogd Khan. The elephant’s decorative ceremonial dress pieces are on display.
Choijin Lama Monastery
The Bogd Khan’s brother and Mongolia’s oracle lived at the Choijin Lama Monastery. It is located within five minutes’ walk of Sukhbaatar Square in modern-day central Ulaanbaatar. This small temple complex showcases traditional tantric Buddhist art and architecture. To be honest, for me some of it was a bit eerie and macabre. For example, in the main hall, demons torturing individuals quite graphically grace the walls. Also, one of the main statues acts as a sarcophagus with a body inside, while clay mixed with ashes from the Khan’s brother made the other.
Intricately carved woodwork for the various statues of Buddha decorate some of the halls. Bronze statues by Zanabazar grace some of the halls.
Other Ulaanbaatar Historic Sites
Not many other historic sites can be found in Ulaanbaatar. Even these are not that old, especially when I compare them to the sites in Beijing that have been here for 600-800 years or even longer in a few cases. When I make it back to Mongolia’s capital, I’ll have more time to find the few other historic places scattered through the city, so that’s something to look forward to.
