Architectural Gems of Sintra

The mountains just north of Lisbon abound with the fantastical architectural gems of Sintra. We took a day trip experience them. There were two main places I wanted to see, Pena Palace and La Quinta da Regaliera, but we got to see more.

On the way to Sintra, our tour went through the seaside town of Cascais. Our short visit here was enough to walk through the small streets marveling at the tile-clad buildings and through the old fort that also served as a palace at times.

We made another pitstop on the way to Sintra at Cabo da Roca. This is the most western point of continental Europe. Seeing that I also made it to the most northwestern point of mainland Africa in Morocco later on this trip and to the most southwestern point of Africa at the Cape of Good Hope last year, maybe I need to make a new list of visiting the edges of continents. Anyway, Cabo da Roca has magnificent views of the Atlantic Ocean with a lovely lighthouse. From there, we ventured into the mountains.

Sintra, Portugal

Inhabited since the Roman era or earlier, Sintra’s lush mountainous landscape has made Sintra an extremely sought-after place to live. In the Middle Ages, Sintra hosted the royal family as a summer retreat. This continued through the Renaissance and beyond.

Because of its association with the royal families, over time Sintra attracted other wealthy nobility to the area. Palaces, estates, and villas decorate the slopes in and around this mountain town from over the past several hundred years. The 1755 earthquake in Lisbon damaged several structures in Sintra too. This is what allowed the eclectic styles of architecture to be mixed in new and restoration builds throughout the latter half of the 18^th century and 19^th century.

La Quinta da Regaliera

Although the property has been in the hands of nobles for centuries, La Quinta da Regaliera is made famous because of António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro or Monteiro the Millionaire. This entomologist inherited his fortune and used it to create a magnificent property that includes a gothic palace and chapel and several acres of park with grottoes, towers, sculptures, caves, tunnels, and mystery.

The palace and chapel are spectacular in their details, but the curiosities of the park are what draw people to this hillside retreat. Throughout the property, the park’s features embody ideologies and design motifs that inspire conspiracy theories surrounding Freemasonry, the Knights Templar, and mysticism like Tarot. (I mean, look at those lizard people!) You may have seen this park featured on TV shows and websites due to these features.

I could have spent several hours exploring this park and wandering its tunnels. The initiation wells are a highlight. Like inverted towers, these structures go down several stories. The larger of the two wells has a spiral staircase that winds all the way to the bottom’s mosaic floor. A tunnel goes from there through the mountain to the other smaller well with offshoots to various other locations in the park.

One can only imagine what rites or ceremonies may have been performed in this park. The parties with rich eccentrics and nobles in the park must have also been spectacles to behold.

Pena Palace

Sintra’s architectural crown jewel sits on top of one of the mountain’s peaks next to the Moorish castle that overlooks the town of Sintra. You can’t easily see the town from Pena Palace, but the view of the ocean from the top of the mountain is spectacular.

Built on the site of a 15^th century monastery, the Pena Palace is a romantic Manueline masterpiece from the 19^th century. From the moment you see its bright yellow exterior, you’re drawn to it. Part of the palace is built in the remnants of the monastery’s cloister, so it maintains those earlier architectural details. Unfortunately, photography isn’t permitted inside (except in the chapel).

I loved the details inside and out, though I’m not sure if I would want to live in all of the spaces. I also loved the approach to the palace and the outdoor spaces.

I would love to return some day to explore more of the architectural gems of Sintra, the palaces and villas that make up this UNESCO World Heritage site.