Rabat Morocco
Rabat, Morocco, the political heart of the country, records just as layered of a history as Tangier, despite only being the capital city since the French protectorate era of the early 20th century. King Mohammed V chose to keep his capital city in Rabat when independence came in 1955. The royal family has a massive palace complex in the city, and all foreign embassies are located in Rabat.
This modern city’s history extends far beyond the French era, however. History tells of the Phoenicians establishing trading centers here. Exposed Roman ruins at the site of a Marinid necropolis diversify the story even further. Remnants of an abandoned project that would have been the world’s largest mosque add details. And, the Barbary pirates making Rabat and its neighboring city of Sale their home base add the intrigue needed for any great narrative.
We were in Rabat for a couple of days with friends who were living there for a couple of years. They offered the local insight and expertise that helped our short time in Rabat be even better.
Hassan Tower
The first time Rabat served as some kind of a capital city was in the 12th century under the rule of Yaqub al-Mansur of the Almohad Caliphate. His prosperous reign allowed him to build the magnificent kasbah overlooking the mouth of the river and Sale, across the way, and begin work on what would have been the world’s largest mosque with the tallest minaret. After his death in 1199, work halted leaving the site incomplete with a half-built tower, Tour Hassan, and rows of incomplete columns.
You might consider them ruins if you don’t know the story, but they aren’t ruins of something that once was. Instead, they leave a shadow of an unfulfilled dream. The current royal family recognized this and built their mausoleum adjoining the plaza of columns.
This tomb and its accompanying structures are magnificent. King Mohammed V is buried here along with his two sons, one being his successor, Hassan II. They spared no expense in design, execution, material, or craftsmanship for the mausoleum. The mosaic tile work covering the walls, metal work on the ceiling and doors, and the carved stone work outside are all absolutely stunning. I could have spent hours mesmerized by the patterns and colors. A reader of the Quran sits in the corner with his voice broadcast for people to meditate on the words.
Kasbah of the Udayas
The first fortified structure built on or near this sight came more than 1,000 years ago. Over the next couple hundred years, what we see today in the Kasbah of Rabat, Morocco, was erected. This imposing citadel overlooks the Atlantic Ocean, the mouth of the river, and the city of Sale, which is across the river. The kasbah includes a palace, mosque, and lovely gardens. Most of it, however, consists of narrow winding alleys like most of Morocco’s medinas that are lined with residences and businesses.
This free tourist attraction has plenty for people to see and experience. The magnificent gates alone entreat visitors to stay for a while gazing at their intricate decoration. A stroll through the gardens gets people up close with a horde of cats that calls the kasbah home.
Across the street from the kasbah we wandered through a spectacular cemetery. And, a block down the road, we entered the gates to the city’s historic medina and strolled through the souk.
Chellah
A bit further up the river from the Kasbah, just outside the main city walls, a fortified park struck me with curiosity the first time we went by. When I learned what it was, I wanted to make it a part of our Rabat itinerary. The massive Chellah walls protect a lush park inside. The park boasts ruins from Rabat’s Roman period including a forum, roads, and temple. Additionally, a lovely historic mosque stands within the garden next to the necropolis for Almohad royalty. All of this was built on an earlier Phoenician settlement.
The site isn’t as extensive as many ancient Roman cities found elsewhere, but it is still impressive, especially in the midst of the earthen ramparts with their pyramidal-topped crenelations. Active excavation and restoration work is being done on the mosque while members of the resident stork colonies perch on its minaret and the compounds walls. More than a hundred pairs of storks call the Chellah and its surrounding trees home. I highly recommend a visit to this little oasis in Rabat, Morocco.
There’s so much more to see in Morocco’s capital city, but it will have to wait until next time.
