The medina of Marrakesh is comprised of several historic districts including the central area full of souks or markets, the kasbah district where the palaces and other royal structures stand, and the Mellah or Jewish quarter. Walls enclosed the medina, historically, just like the other medinas of Morocco. This meant gates used to be the only ways in or out include the magnificent Bab Agnaou. Our last day in Morocco, we wandered the narrow roads and alleys in search for many treasures. In addition to the magnificent architecture and design of the palaces and other important structures, I found beauty in the everyday life of the city. The way the light plays with the city’s passageways with dust creating atmosphere to the way color accents the most simple of places provided memorable and magical experiences throughout this ancient place.
Jemaa el-Fnaa Square
The heart of the Marrakesh medina is one of Africa’s largest public squares. Jemaa el-Fnaa Square not only offers a large gathering place in the city, it also showcases and preserves centuries old traditions, what UNESCO calls intangible cultural heritage. During the day, snake charmers and chained monkeys attract passersby. Although bustling with activity, not until evening does the square truly come to life.
As the sun sets, traditional story tellers weave tales in Arabic and Berber. Although I couldn’t understand them, they had crowds gathered on plastic stools who may pay a coin or two for the performance. Other street performers also come out at dusk. Dancers, musicians, jugglers, and more entertain tourists and locals alike. Some vendors set up carnival-style games that you can play for a small price with the chance to win a prize. And, dozens of food stalls checker the rear of the square. Hawkers with menus try to get everybody to visit their stall. Still, other vendors sit high behind piles and piles of dried fruits and nuts.
I can only imagine what this square may have been like hundreds of years ago with caravans coming and going, traders hawking their wares, and animals, including camels, all around. Today, the square is surrounded by hotels, restaurants, and shops. Entrances to souks and alleys winding into the medina go off the square in every direction. The one open side points directly to the main mosque in Marrakesh accessible through a tree-lined promenade and across one of the busiest streets in town.
Koutoubia Mosque
The largest mosque in Marrakesh boasts an impressive minaret that can be seen from many other places throughout the city. Built in the 12th century, this mosque is the second iteration of the Koutoubia Mosque and third or fourth mosque at or near this site in the medina of Marrakesh. An active mosque, non-Muslim visitors may not enter. However, the architecture on the outside in its garden setting is magnificent, and one of the mosques treasures, its original minbar (pulpit), which pre-dates both versions of this mosque, has been restored and is on display at the El Badi Palace. This specific minbar, designed and constructed in Spain, is considered one of the highest and greatest examples of Islamic art. (photography of the minbar was not allowed)
El Badi Palace
With a name meaning incomparable, also one of the 99 names of God according to Islamic tradition, this palace holds a high opinion of itself. Built at the height of the Saadian dynasty in the 16th century, today, the palace only hints at its former grandeur. It leaves a lot to the imagination. The sultan wanted to show off his wealth and power in this palace. He commissioned the finest materials from around the world. After the Saadians fell out of power, the palace fell into ruin. People pilfered materials for other projects leaving El Badi Palace to crumble where it stood.
Today, remnants leave a shadow of the majesty. Large magnificent pavilions stood at either end of large reflection pools that fed channels of water into and out of the buildings as a cooling system and to feed decorative fountains. On either side of the pools are submerged orchards, today growing oranges. Rows of rooms and other magnificent halls lined either side of this massive courtyard. Today, some are used as gallery spaces with beautiful examples of historical Marrakesh designs.
Behind one wing, visitors descend into an underground prison. Behind the other wing, residences provided luxurious private accommodations complete with running water. Some tile mosaic work still shines through the ruin and rubble.
Bahia Palace
A much younger palace in the medina of Marrakesh, built only in the mid-19th century, the Bahia Palace is no less grand. Built and added onto over the decades by the grand vizier and his son, also grand vizier, the sultan seized the palace after the latter’s death. Since then, the king used the palace as a residence, the French used the palace for their local resident-general, and now guests from around the world gawk at its beauty. The tile work, plaster moldings, and wood carvings are exquisite. The French didn’t ruin this. Instead, the French resident-general maintained and added to the beauty when he had fireplaces installed throughout the palace.
Dar Si Said
Nearby, the brother of the second grand vizier who occupied the Bahia Palace built his own. Dar Si Said boasts similar craftsmanship and beauty but not its size. Dar Si Said is now the Museum of Moroccan Arts. Its collection includes not just the architecture and design features of the palace itself but also the magnificent rugs and tapestries, clothing and armor, and more.
One notable feature of both palaces, their courtyards offer respite and cool in the desert city. They usually have a fountain in the middle and lovely garden beds with lovely plantings. They kind of remind me of the individual living spaces and courtyards of the Summer Palace in Beijing in terms of layout.
Slat Al Azma Synagogue
Just like Fez and other ancient Moroccan cities, the medina of Marrakesh includes the Mellah or Jewish Quarter. We sought this out to find the Slat Al Azma Synagogue. This synagogue is home to a community dating back to the 1492 expulsion of the Jews from Spain. The synagogue isn’t that old as the Mellah only dates back to the mid-16th century. However, it is still historic and beautiful. This synagogue is much simpler than Fez’s Ibn Danan Synagogue. But, like that synagogue, it was integrated into a private home when built, in this case a riad.
Saadians’ Tombs
In my opinion the crowing attraction of design in Marrakesh are the Saadians’ Tombs. Tucked into the labyrinth of Marrakesh’s old city, the people forgot about these tombs for a couple hundred years. In the early 20th century, after rediscovery, major restoration work began. The complex is quite small, but it houses dozens of burial sites, some within exquisitely decorated halls and others out in the open. The Chamber of Twelve Columns or Mausoleum of Ahmad al-Mansur is the most magnificent. The spectacular tile mosaic work dazzles with its intricate designs. The carved stone columns and arches exude opulence. And, don’t forget to look up at the coffers!
To view any of the indoor spaces, guests queue up to get a peek through the doors. I literally could have stood there examining and appreciating the beauty and grandeur for much longer, but I had to let others have a turn.
