Stories of Pioneers
My whole life I’ve been told stories of pioneers crossing the great plains to settle in Utah. One that was repeated time and again was of the Martin and Willie Handcart Companies that got caught in early snow on their trek causing many to die of cold and hunger.
I remember the harrowing account of rescuers crossing the Sweetwater River and carrying the weakened travelers across one by one, just west of Devil’s Gate. The pioneers then spent five days in a natural cove along the neighboring rock formation before continuing the journey to Salt Lake City.
When I first moved to Utah, I spent the first three summers leading teenagers on reenactments to experience the tiniest bit of what those early pioneers experienced. It wasn’t until a few years later that I learned some of my ancestors were part of those handcart pioneers and suffered through that early snow in 1856.
Last summer, I finally had a chance to visit. I was inspired and would love to go back.
Devil’s Gate
Could you imagine coming to this massive cleft in the rocks after walking hundreds of miles of open grasslands? I’m sure it was the same amazement as when they saw Chimney Rock or a thundering herd of thousands of bison. Not only is it a wonder of nature, but it was a great place for a break on a long journey over the hot dusty plains.
We hiked to the river, where it comes through the 100-meter-deep gorge, waded into the cool water, and marveled at its beauty and magnificence. I watched as a snake swam by in the crystal-clear water, the frogs hopped in, and swallows dipped and dove.
Martin’s Cove
With the cool river running through the shadow of this natural opening, I’m sure most of the passing pioneers found some respite from their journey. But this wasn’t the case for those of the ill-fated handcart companies late in the season of 1856.
The river meanders from the gate snaking its way across the plains. It isn’t very wide, and its sandy banks aren’t too difficult to manage. Unless of course you’re facing starvation and have been pushing through waist-high snow drifts for miles with insufficient clothing and shoes. Now, at the site, interpretive trails and signs help tell the story of those who traveled here 165 years ago. Visitors can walk in their footsteps pulling handcarts and learning their stories. Due to Covid-19, those options weren’t available last summer, but I did take the chance to sit and contemplate my ancestors’ sacrifices and why they did it.
The site is partially owned and operated by The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints and Bureau of Land Management and lies on the Oregon Trail, Mormon Trail, and California Trail off of Wyoming 220. There are well-marked trails to both Devil’s Gate and Martin’s Cove.
