As I mentioned in my post about Theodore Roosevelt National Park, President Roosevelt was the first president to use the Antiquities Act to preserve public lands. He used that power declaring Devils Tower National Monument the first national monument. And, yes, there is no apostrophe in the name.
A Sacred Place to Native Americans
Devils Tower holds a special place in the cultures and lore of Native Americans indigenous to the region. The names they give it include Bear’s Lodge, Bear’s Tipi, Tree Rock, and others. If you weren’t aware of the significance and sacred nature, there are many signs to indicate it. These include real signs from the park service and also the strips of fabric tied to tree branches all around the formation. It reminded me of places in China and Mongolia where I saw similar practices. Once a year, in June, the park is used by many of the local tribes for special ceremonies. Climbing and other activities are restricted during June because of this.
Devils Tower Origins
This mighty rock formation rises out of the plains nearly straight up. Hexagonal Columns are remnants of some massive geologic episode that could have been volcanic in nature. As the igneous rock cooled, it hardened in the distinctive columns we see today. Other places I’ve seen this, the columns are exposed on the side of a hill or mountain, usually near water that has worn away at the sediment cover them up. This formation, however, juts up vertically out of nothing, and the columns surround the monolith.
Many of the names Native Americans gave this tower reflect the myths and legends regarding its creation. One tells of young girls being chased by bears. They climb on a rock and pray to the Great Spirit who lifts the rock up, so the bears can’t climb it. The bears scratch and claw in attempts to get to the girls, but they only leave their marks. These would be the columns. These girls were then taken into the sky and the Pleiades or Seven Sisters constellation.
Another myth tells of two boys being chased by one giant bear. Upon praying the Creator, the rock again rose up from the ground taking the boys out of reach of the bear. The bear tried and tried to get up but was unable and left. It came to rest at what is now called Bear Butte, east of the Black Hills. The eagle helped the boys return home.
A Walk Around the Tower
No matter the origin, this rock formation is impressive and awe-inspiring. My visit took me on the Tower Trail, which loops all the way around the tower through the surrounding forest. Views of the tower and off into the distance mesmerize. Along the trail, interpretive signage connects visitors to the place with stories of the tower’s origin, significance of wildfires, Native American lore of the tower and Black Hills, and more.
This trail isn’t the only one in the park, but it is the busiest. However, the crowds really die out if you make it to the backside of the tower. Most people tend to go a little down the path and then return from whence they came. I’d recommend going all the way around. Not only does this give different views and perspectives of the tower and surrounding scenery, but it also allows for peaceful meditation and hiking. We saw deer and many birds. We scrambled up some of the larger boulders in the scree around the tower. I sat and pondered. I am grateful this place has been preserved in its natural beauty, and would love to return to experience Devils Tower National Monument again.
